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Cabinets

How to vet a cabinet installation subcontractor

Your boxes leave the shop perfect. Whether they read custom or cheap in the client's kitchen is on the installer. Here's what a shop owner should check before putting a sub's hands on your name — from a finish carpenter who does the install.

Nicholas Dunn7 min read

A cabinet shop lives or dies on the install, and it's the one part of the job the shop usually can't see happen. Your boxes leave the floor square, doors aligned, finish clean. Then they go up a flight of stairs, get set against a wall that's out of plumb, on a floor that isn't flat, in a house you'll never walk. Whether that mid-grade kitchen reads custom or reads cheap comes down entirely to whose hands set it. So when you're picking an install subcontractor to carry your volume, you're not hiring a warm body with an impact driver — you're handing a stranger your reputation. Here's what I'd check before I did that.

Are they finish carpenters, or box-droppers?

This is the whole ballgame, and it's the easiest thing to fake in a conversation and the hardest to fake on a wall. A cabinet install is finish carpentry — the setting is the easy 80 percent, and the 20 percent that shows is scribing, fillers, reveals, crown, and finished ends. Ask how they scribe an end panel to a wavy wall: the right answer involves back-cutting the edge so it closes tight with no gap and no caulk bead doing the work. Ask how they handle a run of light rail or crown into a corner. If they don't say coped at the inside corners, mitered at the outside, and returns cut and glued to close, keep looking. A crew that copes inside corners and back-cuts a scribe is a crew that understands the wall never comes to the cabinet — the cabinet has to go to the wall.

The tell is in how they talk about reveals. A good installer plans filler widths so the gap at the wall matches the gap between the doors, because the eye reads consistency and it's inconsistency that makes an install look off even when nobody can name why. If they've never thought about that, they set boxes; they don't finish kitchens. For the deeper picture on what separates finish work from framing, our note on what finish carpentry actually is covers the mindset.

Insurance, license, and the paperwork that protects you

This one's not glamorous and it's non-negotiable. A sub setting your product in a client's home under your name is a liability exposure, and if they're not covered, you are. Before anyone touches a job, get it in writing:

  • General liability insurance — a real certificate you can hold, not a verbal "yeah, we're covered." Ask to be sent one before the first install, not after a problem.
  • Workers' comp if they carry a crew — so an installer hurt in your client's kitchen isn't a claim that lands on your policy.
  • The right license for the work and the jurisdiction — confirm what your state and county require; it varies, and "licensed" means nothing until you know licensed for what.
  • A written agreement on the relationship — who the client belongs to, who fields the callback, and how a warranty issue gets handled. Get it settled before the season, not during a dispute.

Will they show up — every time, on the day they said?

Install is the last thing that has to happen before you can invoice and before your client gets their kitchen. A sub who's brilliant on the wall but flaky on the calendar will cost you more than a merely-good one who never misses a window. Cabinets gate the countertop template, the template gates the tops, the tops gate the plumbing and the final. One slipped install day pushes the whole back half of a schedule, and the client hears about it from you, not from your sub. So weigh reliability as heavily as craft:

  • Do they commit to a real window and hit it? Ask past shops they've subbed for, not for a reference name but for a straight answer on whether they showed up when they said.
  • Do they communicate through the install? You want to hear about a wrong-handed lazy Susan or a damaged door front from your installer, clearly, before your client ever does.
  • Can they flex with your season? Volume swings; a sub who can scale up in the rush and isn't dead weight in the slow weeks is worth more than a fixed crew you're carrying either way.
  • Do they leave it clean with a punch list? A crew that walks the finished kitchen and hands you a short, honest list is a crew that owns its work.

Who keeps the client?

This is the question that keeps a shop owner up at night, and it's fair. You spent years earning the relationship — the last thing you want is a sub who shows up in a branded shirt, hands the homeowner a card, and turns your install into their lead. The right install partner installs under your name and never steps in front of your relationship. They're an extension of your shop for a day, then they're gone, and the client stays yours. Get that understanding explicit before the first job. A sub who won't put it in writing is telling you something.

The clean version of this is a sub who installs but doesn't sell cabinets and doesn't compete for the box work. Then handing them your volume isn't giving a competitor a foot in the door — it's the opposite. They only look good when your shop looks good, so your reputation and theirs point the same direction.

The install-craft checklist — hinges, slides, and the moving parts

Setting the boxes level and plumb is table stakes. What separates a finished kitchen from a hung one is how the whole run moves once it's set. A client opens every door and pulls every drawer; that's the part they judge with their hands. So the details to probe:

  • Do they dial hinges and slides so the run moves as one? Six-way adjustable hinges exist to make doors line up dead-even and gaps consistent across a run — a good installer sets them, doesn't just leave the factory setting.
  • Do they set the run off the high point of the floor? Start a base cabinet in the low corner and every door and drawer downstream fights you. Uppers hang to a level line, not to a crooked ceiling.
  • Do shims go where they carry load, then get cut back so nothing telegraphs? Shim to be handy instead of to carry weight and the run works loose later.
  • Do they treat a finished end as finished? A raw box side left exposed is the fastest way to make custom cabinets read like stock.

A lot of this is the same site-readiness conversation from the builder side — our cabinet install day prep covers what has to be true before the boxes go in, and a sub who asks those questions before install day is a sub who's set a lot of kitchens. If you want the full picture of what falls inside a clean set, our cabinet installation page walks the whole scope, fillers and scribes and crown included.

If you're a cabinet shop weighing whether to put your install volume on a dedicated finish crew, that's exactly what we do — installs under your name, on a window you can plan around, so your floor stays focused on building boxes. See how we work with shops, and let's talk about your volume.

Questions

Quick answers.

Four things: real finish-carpentry skill (scribing, fillers, consistent reveals, coped inside corners and mitered outside corners on crown and light rail), proof of insurance and the right license, scheduling reliability you can plan a delivery date around, and a clear agreement that the client relationship stays with your shop. The install is the part of the job the client actually judges, so weigh craft and dependability equally.

Also from Nicholas Dunn

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